Results of the Riesling Tasting November 2007

From the Riesling tasting in November, 2007

Of the 5,000 true agricultural varietals of grapes, about 150 are grown commercially in the world. Of these, there are five classic white wine types (chardonnay, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, riesling, and semillion). Riesling (REEZ-ling) is very difficult to grow, and does best in cool to cold climates, hence it is found coming from places such as Germany, the Alsace region of France, northern Austria, and even the upstate regions of New York and California and the Pacific Northwest. From Karen MacNeil, "The Wine Bible"(2001):

"Despite its neglect in the United States, riesling is considered by many wine experts to be the most noble and unique white grape in the world. Given the right soil and winemaking methods, the triad of high acidity, high extract (flavor), and low alcohol leads to intensely flavorful wines of ravishing delicacy, transparancy, and lightness. Riesling's refined structure is complemented by the mouthwatering delicate flavors of ripe peaches, apricots, and melons, and sometimes pierced with a vibrant mineral quality, like the taste of water running over stones in a mountain stream."

Most American wines are straightforward and easy to figure out when you look at the label - they usually indicate the grape varietal and where from (who what, where, and when). As for quality, it's a bit of a crap shoot ("reserve" means nothing, and they can add other grapes to a certain percentage). Since most of the wines we tasted were German, the labels take on a whole different meaning. They are not only in a different language, but can give indications of what to expect in the wine. We discovered this during our preparation for the tasting, so here's a primer on the Basics of German Rankings:

Like most European wines, there is a ranking system to indicate the quality, type, or specific attributes of German wines (there are ten different leading types of wines - riesling is one of the top). From what I can find, (and without taking course in German), the quality rankings (lowest to highest) for all German wines are from the German Wine Law of 1971. There are three grades of quality:

Qualitatswein - certain grape varieties, and have a rating associated with the weight (specific gravity) and can have added sugar if the grapes are not ripe enough

Qualitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiet (QbA) - "Quality wine from a specific appellation" - the grade for the Qualitatswein wines that should come from one of the offical thirteen growing areas (Gebiet)

Qualitatswein mit Pradikat (QmP) - "Quality wine with special attributes" - the top of the line grapes that do not use sugar. If they grapes are not ripe enough, they don't make it into their wine, and may sell it off to others. Within this top rating, there are six levels of sweetness:

Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese (most common rankings found on labels)

Beerenauslese (BA), Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA), and Eiswein - sweetest desert wines

Since sugar in the grape is converted into alcohol during fermentation (and this can be controlled with the extra sugar and fiddling with fermentation), the less alcohol on the label, the more likely it will be sweet. Not always true, but a basic rule of thumb for Rieslings. The above rankings also help us to remember that less sweet = Kabinett, more sweet is Spatlese and Auslese, if you have a preference.

In west Germany near the Luxemberg border, the best Reisling can be found from wineries along the Mosel and Reine Rivers. Rain, temperature, soil, sunshine, and wind all play a part in determining which wines will end up the best. Of course, tasting will give you a better idea, and since the tasting was blind, the relative price (and label design - remember Blue Nun?) have no influence here - it's your palate and nose having their say.

Blind Tasting Results (number of first place votes and the order in which it was tasted among thirteen wines):

Caveat - names of wines may contain typos due to bad penmanship :)

#1 - eight votes - 2006 Armand Riesling Kabinett - easy and pleasant forward nose - citrusy, a bit tart, even some mineralty to balance it out - most popular with the group (tasted tenth)

#1 - see note below (tasted sixth)

#2 - six votes - 2006 Dr. F. Weins-Prum Wehlemer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese - light and fruity - peachy - medium finish (tasted fifth)

#2 - six votes - 2005 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten - Riesling Kabinett Pfalz - also light and fruity - not harsh or alcoholic and best complexity and finish (tasted ninth)

#3 - five votes - 2006 Van Hovel - Riesling - a bit of asphalt and sulpher combined with fruity forward nose and tip of the tongue aloofness - good combination and well balanced (tasted seventh)

Of note (four votes or less):

2006 Robert Mondavi Private Selection, Montery County
2006 Pfeffingsen Dry Riesling
2006 Weingut Max Ferra Richter Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett
2006 Columbia Crest Riesling Columbia Valley
2004 Von Hovel Estate Riesling
2005 Donnhoff SchloBbockelheiner Felsenberg Riesling Spatlese
NV Pacific Rim Dry Riesling - Bonny Doon Vineyard
2006 Dr. L Loosen Bros.

Note: There was a mystery wine that was tied for first and received eight first place votes, but the wine club member took home what was left of the bottle for her husband to taste so we did not record it :( - from my notes it was a 2005, somewhat easy and light on the palate but with serious structure, and was tasted sixth, receiving eight first place votes!

Mark